I Got the Almighty Tongue - Chapter 198



Only Krnovel

198 Richard Wells

“Which restaurant should we choose as the hot topic this week?”

Samantha Suzman, an associate editorial critic at The New York Times, poses questions to her team.

The New York Times’ food section is a powerful force in the culinary world, but few people know that it’s made up of just six people.

Of course, there are many external contributors and freelance journalists, but that’s what I’m talking about in terms of affiliation.

Yet, in New York City, the New York Times’ restaurant ratings have more influence than the Michelin Guide.

Melissa, the youngest reporter in the food section, finds the reason in history and tradition.

‘The New York Times critics don’t write paid articles.’

This has been a tradition and a source of pride since the ‘Food Today’ section was created in the New York Times in 1976.

The food section, which had gained such credibility, expanded its scope to include the New York Times Magazine and was enjoying its heyday.

And the man who made this possible.

Melissa looks at Richard sitting at the head of the editorial office.

Richard Wells, a Yale University English Literature graduate, began his career at The New York Times in 1994 as a food and beverage reporter, just like himself.

Richard, who covered and introduced various food cultures around the world, became fascinated by the world of gastronomy and forgot about his main job to explore taste.

Thanks to the editor who had been keeping an eye on him, Richard pushed out Edna Lewis, who was the editor-in-chief, and began to pursue a career as a critic in earnest.

Richard’s objective yet sharp criticism also impressed New York Times readers.

Intuition that sees through the essence of food, wide-ranging experience and knowledge that encompasses not only Europe and America but also countries in Asia and Africa, and the courage not to be intimidated by the reputation of restaurants and chefs.

He was the longest-serving critic in the history of the New York Times and the man who gave credibility and professionalism to the Times’ restaurant ratings.

Richard’s influence is not due to his being a critic for the New York Times. He has already transcended affiliations.

Melissa recalled an incident that happened last year.

Le Bernardin, one of only seven three-star Michelin restaurants in New York and famous for selling the most expensive food,

Richard took aim at industry giant Derek Lippert in a column titled “Was It Worth the Money?”

‘There is no reverence for creation in the cuisine there.’

If I had to summarize Richard’s comment in one sentence, it would be something like this.

Richard harshly criticized the dishes as having forgotten the essence of the ingredients, such as the dishes that obsessively point out their shortcomings while missing even their strengths, the hall staff that have forgotten how to respect their customers due to their excessive pride, and their arrogance in blindly following French recipes and not using American ingredients.

An outraged chef, Derek Lippert, protested strongly to Richard and the New York Times and demanded a correction, but Richard simply snorted.

And Le Bernardin, the mecca of New York French restaurants, has collapsed. Unable to withstand the rapidly declining reservation rate and the flood of complaints, it has informed its customers that it will take time to reorganize.

Since then, New York’s fine dining scene has begun to change little by little.

‘reasonable value’

This was the principle he emphasized.

It asked the question, “Are you guys worth paying that much for?” to some high-end restaurants that use expensive imported ingredients, have recipes that lack innovation, and treat new customers like country bumpkins.

“It’s hard to recommend a place. Restaurants in New York these days are becoming too uniform. Trends spread too quickly.”

Julia Mozzina, food trends and products reporter, adds:

“There is definitely that kind of corner. The dining scene in the 90s was a lot different than it is now. Wherever you went, you could taste the unique menu of that restaurant.

“When I go into a restaurant and eat dishes that embody the chef’s philosophy and originality, there are times when I feel like I’m having a conversation with the chef through the food.”

Richard agrees with Julia.

“What is the reason?”

Melissa asks him a question when she sees him.

“It’s because information spreads too quickly. This applies not only to chefs but also to customers. Delicious food is quickly shared and creates additional demand. Then, supply is created again.”

“These days, more and more restaurants are using porcini mushrooms in their steaks. They do the same thing, starting with the initial roasting in the oven and then searing it in a pan.”

“Recipe reporter Madison sighs,” he says.

“Segretto’s influence on New York’s dining scene has been nothing short of remarkable. Chef Shin Je-hee in particular sometimes gets the impression that she specializes in meat and appetizers.

“Even 10 years ago, there were very few chefs who put effort into amuse-bouche. But since Segreto came along, the trend has changed. Every course, from amuse-bouche to dessert, has started to tell a story.”

Everyone nods at Richard’s explanation.

“Didn’t you also praise Chef Shin Je-hee so much back then? You even put Roland’s article on the front page without much objection.”

Richard chuckles at Samantha’s words.

“I felt like I was witnessing a true innovation. The emergence of a young genius always excites people.”

“But hasn’t it been over a year since I’ve handled Segreto?”

“It’s at a standstill.”

“Is that so? Like everyone else, I’m a food journalist, so I get asked a lot to recommend restaurants. But I’ve never heard a complaint when I recommended Segreto.”

Richard chuckles at Melinda’s words.

“Of course. A restaurant of that class is not common even in Paris or Tokyo.”

“You said it was at a standstill.”

“When Chef Shin Je-hee got two Michelin stars, I thought it was a natural result. And I expected that he would get three stars soon. But he has already wasted two years, including this year. The important thing is that his talent has not been exhausted.”

“sure?”

“Chef Shin Je-hee has a variety of businesses. She has Hundred Dishes and recently launched a lunch box. That means she has less energy to devote to Segreto.

“I see talent as a concept similar to a commodity. There is an opportunity cost to everything. That’s a shame.”

Although he didn’t write a column, Richard visited Segreto periodically, and he felt a little sorry when Sam, the sous chef, came out to greet the guests instead of the head chef.

“Come to think of it, there have only been minor changes since the new menu came out last winter. There hasn’t been a major overhaul. Originally, it was a restaurant that changed its menu very quickly.”

Samantha nods and says.

“For wine lovers like me, there’s no other option in New York than Segreto. The list changes every month and I’ve never been disappointed. I’ve also subscribed to their YouTube channel.”

Michael, a sommelier and wine critic, is praising wine. Once he starts, it can last for an hour, so Samantha quickly cuts him off, keeping an eye on him.

“In that sense, how about covering Segreto once more? The path that Chef Shin Je-hee has walked and its current state.”

“Hmm… When I heard that, the title of the column came to mind.”

“What are you going to do with it?”

“I’ll write it all down and show you. Gather information about Segreto and Chef Shin Je-hee.”

“”All right.””

* * *

[Has his talent already dried up?

Four years ago, Chef Shin Je-hee’s dishes, which boldly deconstructed and reconstructed textures and shapes, confused gourmets not only in New York but around the world. This is because they shook up the very definition of taste.

The shock of the various flavors of caviar, which melted and burst on the tongue as a transparent film, was a surprise that is still talked about by many people to this day.

His dessert ‘Snowy Hill’, which showed how imperfect the human sense of taste is, has been the subject of study by many chefs for many years and has also been the subject of indiscriminate imitation.

It was inevitable that New York, the center of the world’s economy and culture, would become a battleground for world-class fine dining restaurants. The creative recipes that Segreto presented during this period showed the spirit of a newcomer who did not lose his shine among them.

It must have been understandable to everyone that he achieved the record of winning a Michelin star in the shortest period of time.

I would like to give a review to Segreto, who has been in business for 2-3 years, for redefining appetizers, which used to be simple finger foods, as the main characters of the course.

In the past, appetizers were like a prelude to the main dish.

Guests eat appetizers and enjoy wine while chatting with their companions, and the course builds to a climax, the main course.

All the appetizers were little more than devices to enhance the main course.

But Chef Shin Je-hee gave the appetizer a brief but very strong presence.

Rather than just being an ancillary role for the main character, they have been given a new role as an eye-catcher who captures the audience’s eyes and ears with their dazzling performances in the moment.

Segreto’s signature appetizer, which starts as a sprout, grows into a tree, and finally blooms, was nothing short of a masterpiece.

Chef Shin Je-hee’s attempt changed the very trend of the New York dining industry.

Customers who have experienced Segreto are never satisfied with appetizers that remain in a passive role in the past.

A chef I know recently complained of being tired of spending more time and effort on appetizers than on the main course.

It was perhaps no surprise that he won two Michelin stars the following year.

And at that moment, many industry critics and gourmets predicted the emergence of a new star who would become the youngest person to receive three Michelin stars in the shortest period of time.

But Chef Shin Je-hee’s subsequent moves have been unexpected. He reached out to New York office workers by launching Hundred Dishes, and now he’s reaching out to young students through lunch boxes.

Meanwhile, Segreto is only focused on maintaining the status quo and is not showing any significant change or innovation.

I would like to first confess that I am greatly disappointed and discouraged by his changes. Of course, I am not saying that what he is doing now is meaningless.

However, it was not just my imagination that saw Alain Ducasse, the greatest chef in history, in Chef Shin Je-hee, who led the innovation of dining.

But his current actions remind me of Jamie Oliver, who opened a mid-priced restaurant and led the reform of school meals.

Where is he headed now? And what does he want?

Has his talent dried up already?

That won’t be the case.

With every talent comes every responsibility.

My column today is a tribute to him and a fervent request.]

-Richard Wells, The New York Times

* * *

“That bastard. He made Richard say things like that.”

Romeo chuckles as he reads the New York Times.

But he couldn’t just laugh comfortably, because he had similar worries as Richard.